I stayed on board all day Tuesday because of the high winds but the next day, Wednesday, I was ashore before 6.30 because the sun was up by then. I had to take the outboard off the dinghy and carry it up off the beach and then go back and carry the dinghy up on my back to the grass. The guy at the bike hire place came out when he saw me reading his shop signs at 1/4 to 7 and though wasnt due to open for two hours he opened up the shed and I got a bike and helmet for two days and off I went. I had an hour and a half to kill before the cafes would open for breakfast and coffee which I was so hanging out for - so eventually found myself at Neds Beach which faced the early morning sun-a large beautiful crescent shaped beach with cliffs at either end and a cluster of rugged islands a mile or two off shore.
Its here at Neds that the famous fish feeding takes place but the beach was deserted. I saw a turtle and a few fish in the shallows and when I went and stood with water up to my knees the fish appeared and milled around, massive kingfish and various others looking for food, almost brushing my legs as they swam round me!
Eventually I got back to the Cafe and had lovley corn fritters with salsa, grilled tomato and spinach - or some such - and a couple of coffees. I stayed there reading my book for a while and then headed for the Police Station to check in. Normally that should be done as soon as you arrive but I had spoken to the policeman, Andrew, on my VHF - which was working perfectly by the way - once I was secured to the mooring on Monday and he indicated there was no urgency - suggested I could probably do with a sleep first! There's no CBD here - offices shops and restaurants seem to be randomly scattered along all the roads among homes and gardens. Everything is nestled among beautiful trees and garden so from the lagoon you really cant make out much in the way of a settlement and the roads are almost like tunnels through the canopy of trees, down one of which I found the little Cop Shop. Andrew has been here only since the beginning of the year and before that was at Tibooburra for several years. For anyone not knowing where that is, its way out near "Camerons Corner" the far north western edge of NSW, about as outback as you can be in NSW, a place I visited several times as a Flying Dr many years ago, so we had something to talk about, quite apart from my frowned upon unaided entry on Monday! Exactly what went wrong then I still haven't figured! So I filled out paperwork and he gave me a packet of forms and information from NZ Customs that I will need to read and then email the details they require to NZ . Next I went to the "Board Office" on the way chatting to a lovely lady pushing a pram along the middle of the road - its that relaxed here! Inside the pram was a 4 week old baby, Amelia who had been born in Sydney. No babies are born here "anymore" she said "except by accident" so she was required to go and stay with relatives in Sydney from a month before the baby was expected. She said the baby came on the due date and everything was wonderful and they came back after 6 days. What a beautiful place to bring a baby to!
At the Board Office I paid money for my mooring and got a key to the shed where there are toilets, shower and laundry. Next I cycled out to the airport and introduced myself to the guys in the Met Office, Doug and Dave - great guys, very welcoming and eager to inform and help out. I'm going back today for a final forecast, which I hope will give me the all clear to leave in the morning. 
I visited another beach and chatted to a woman who has been coming here since the time of Flying Boats in the 70's! Apart from developing the Airport and sealing the roads she didn't think much had changed! Next I went to the fascinating museum which really needs a whole day! There are fabulous exhibits describing the amazing flora and fauna and geological and social history of the place. There were never any indigenous people here, the island was discovered in 1788 by one of the First Fleet boats, and the first settlers shortly after were three couples from New Zealand! So this is really a Kiwi colony! Sadly of I think 16 indigenous species recognized at the time only 5 remain, the others killed off by introduced rats. Before World War One Cruise Ships used to stop off here, and there was an interesting record of the British Warship which ran aground on Wolf Rock in 2002 and very nearly sank. Eventually it was towed backwards to Newcastle - because the holes were at the bow - and then unbelievably, put on a ship! and taken back to the UK for repair. The Commander and officers were Court Martialled.
After lunch at the museum Cafe I spoke to a 65 year old man who said he had sailed here from Gosford in the race many times - though not this year - and twice he did it in an Eastcoast 31 - the same type of boat as Sapphire, and of course he too was very complimentary about their sea handling capabilities. Next I went in the Dinghy to North beach. On the way I saw turtles and several huge stingrays and at the beach there were thousands of nesting birds and chicks squeaking everywhere. In the evening I went to the Bowling Club for a delicious dinner of grilled local Kingfish - not from Neds Beach I hope! - and hit the sack before ten. It was getting close to High Tide which is when the ocean swell comes over the reef and makes the moored boats all roll like hell.
Today I will be getting everything tidied up and ready for departure tomorrow. I'll get some fresh bread and fruit, top up the diesel - I used 20 liters getting here, and recorded 18 engine hours - and of course visit the Met Office again. I'll have to get back on board by about 3 so I can get the dinghy up on deck and dried out before packing it away.
Sapphire Out----------
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